Bread bakers — and those who dream of baking homemade bread — here’s a savory pastry project that will get you started on the right foot: baking the perfect Gougeres. These classic golden, French cheese puffs, with their tender, airy texture and rich, cheesy flavor, are an absolute hoot to make and even more delightful to eat. Whether you’re hosting a chic holiday party, a casual brunch, or simply treating yourself, this recipe will take you step-by-step through creating these elegant bites.
Many, many years, when this blog was still a toddler, I stumbled upon a group of people who were cooking through Dorie Greenspan’s cookbooks, a la The Julie/Julia Project. I was in my Dorie Greenspan girl-crush era myself, and despite questioning my ability to commit to cooking weekly recipes and posting the results on this blog — along with a hectic career job, a robust side-gig, and, you know, a food blog — I jumped right into French Fridays with Dorie.
The experience is worth its own blog post for another time — the people were lovely, the food delicious — but the most memorable recipe I made from the project was the very first one: Gougeres.
It was my first time making pate a choux, a crazily concocted batter that’s not only cooked on the stovetop before baking, but cooked rather violently at that, and yet somehow produces something so light and airy, like this:
As someone who loves appetizers more than full meals, these cheese puffs are an elegant and lovely — but still easy to make — addition to the table.
By the way, although I don’t competently parlayvoo the fransay, I believe they’re pronounced “goo-zhjairz” in the plural, with the emphasis on the “air.”
Ingredients
Here’s a quick list of the basic ingredients for Gougeres and the role they play in the recipe.
Whole Milk: Provides the liquid base for the dough, ensuring the right consistency.
Unsalted Butter: Adds richness and aids in creating a smooth dough.
All-Purpose Flour: The main structure of the gougères.
Eggs: Integral for leavening and binding the dough.
Dijon Mustard: Adds a subtle, tangy depth.
Cheese (Gruyère or Sharp Cheddar): The star ingredient that offers a savory, cheesy flavor.
Cook’s Tips for Making Pate a Choux
Creating the pâte à choux, which is the basis of the recipe, might seem daunting at first, but with practice, it becomes an easy and rewarding process. This dough is the foundation of many elegant and delicious pastries, so mastering it will open up a world of baking possibilities. Here are a few key tips to keep in mind as you work on the Gougères:
Stirring the Flour: Vigorous stirring when adding the flour cooks out the moisture and is key to a light, airy dough.
Egg Temperature: Room temperature eggs mix more easily into the dough.
If the dough is too dry: Add a bit more egg until you reach the desired consistency.
If the dough is too wet: This is a problem that is, quite honestly, challenging to fix, but you can try adding a bit more flour and cooking it a bit longer.
How to Make Gougères
Here’s an overview of the process. Please use the full instructions in the recipe card below. Before starting, arrange your oven racks into thirds, preheat the oven to 425ºF, and line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.
Step 1: Make the Pate a Choux
In a roomy saucepan, combine the liquids, butter, and salt and bring to a boil over medium heat. Once the mixture reaches a boil and the butter is melted, add all the flour at once. Reduce the heat to low.
Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon or spatula until a smooth dough forms and pulls away from the sides of the pan, leaving a thin film on the bottom. This process takes about 1-2 minutes and is crucial for drying out the dough to make puffy puffs.
Step 2: Incorporate the Eggs
Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer affixed with the paddle attachment and let rest for a minute. Begin adding the eggs, one at a time, beating the batter until each egg is fully incorporated into the dough before adding the next.
At times, the dough might look like it’s separating but just keep going. By the last egg white, the dough will be beautiful and cohesive. Mix in the mustard, followed by the cheese. Scrape down the bowl by hand.
Step 3: Scoop and bake
Use a small cookie scoop to spoon the dough on to the baking sheets, leaving 2″ between each mound of dough.
Reduce the oven the temperature and bake the gougeres for approximately 30 minutes, rotating the pans after 12 minutes. The gougeres are fully baked when puffy and golden, and can be lifted from the baking sheet without collapsing.
Frequently Asked Questions about Gougeres
What kind of cheese should I use?
Traditionally, French Gougeres are made with Gruyere, but can be hard to find and/or pricey in parts of the U.S. You can substitute a semi-firm, aged cheese, or use sharp cheddar. (I used combo of Gruyere and sharp cheddar for this version of the recipe.)
Can I make gougères ahead of time?
Absolutely! You can scoop and freeze the dough on baking sheets, and then transfer them frozen to a bag or container to keep in the freezer. Bake them as directed straight from the freezer, adding a few extra minutes to the baking time.
How do I store leftover gougères?
They’re definitely best enjoyed fresh, but you can store baked gougères in the freezer and reheat in a 350°F oven for a few minutes.
Can I add other ingredients to the dough?
Yes, feel free to add herbs or spices for additional flavors. Just ensure they complement the cheese.
How do I keep the gougeres crisp yet tender?
Serious Eats has a great tip: when baking has completed, turn off the oven and let the gougeres rest in the cooling oven for about 30 minutes. This helps keep the exterior from softening due to the trapped steam within the gougeres.
American appetizers are sometimes clunky, gooey concoctions that satisfy our cravings for fat and salt. (Not an insult; I love them!). Gougeres are the perfect counterpoint, elegant and tender. The kind of appetizer that makes you feel like to you should stick out your pinky finger to enjoy.
Serve them for brunch, or a breakfast buffet. Or at the stroke of midnight on New Year’s Eve with a glass of something bubbly.
Gougeres (French Cheese Puffs)
Ingredients
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 1/2 cup water
- 1 stick unsalted butter
- 1 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 1 cup all purpose flour
- 4 large eggs , at room temperature
- 1 large egg white , at room temperature
- 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard (preferably French)
- 2 cups coarsely grated cheese such as Gruyère cheese or sharp cheddar
Instructions
- Position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat it to 425 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.
- Bring the milk, water, butter and salt to a boil over high heat in a medium saucepan. Make sure that the better has melted. Add the flour all at once, lower the heat and immediately start stirring vigorously with a heavy spoon. The dough will form a ball and there’ll be a light film on the bottom of the pan. Keep stirring for another 2 minutes or so to dry the dough. Dry dough will make puffy puffs.
- Transfer the dough into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or continue to by hand in the pot with a wooden spoon and some elbow grease). Let the dough sit for a minute, then add the eggs one by one, followed by the white, beating until each egg is incorporated before adding the next. The dough may look like it’s separating or falling apart but just keep working. By the time the white goes in, the dough will be cohesive. Beat in the mustard, followed by the cheese and the walnuts. Give the dough a last mix-through by hand.
- Scoop or spoon out the dough, using a small cookie scoop. If you’d like larger puffs, shape them with a tablespoon or medium-size cookie scoop. Drop the dough onto baking sheets, spaced about 2 inches apart. (Note that the gougeres dough can frozen on baking sheets at this point.) You can also use a pastry piping bag fitted with a 1/2″ tip.
- Place the baking sheets in the oven and immediately turn the oven temperature down to 375ºF. Bake for 12 minutes, then rotate the pans from front to back and top to bottom.
- Continue baking until the gougeres are puffed, golden and firm enough to pick up, another 15 to 20 minutes.
- Serve immediately. They’re best served hot from the oven!